It would be fair to say that there aren’t all that many peaceful spots in Athens,
but once the rowdy school group has toddled off around the corner, the
Agora becomes beautifully tranquil. There’s a certain irony in this, as
it was designed to be anything but. The Agora was the ancient Athenian
market and meeting place; the hub of the city-state. It was the heart
and the pulse of the truest democracy the world has ever known, and now
it looks like a large field full of ruins.
Odeon of Herodes Atticus on side of Acropolis
Peace in the Agora
That it can be seen at all is rather remarkable. A whole quarter of the city had to be knocked down to reveal the remnants; it’s unthinkable that this could happen in such a big, busy city today.The Agora was originally an open space crossed by the Panathenaic Way – the path you can still walk on today on the way up to the Acropolis – and finally took the form that the ruins indicate in the 2nd century AD. Since then, it has been repeatedly wrecked, plundered and reoccupied – latterly in the Greek War of independence in 1826-27.
The Agora was later discovered underneath the modern city, and it has been open to the public since 1957. Many of the ruins are now growing over with weeds and grass, but the signs still attempt to explain what they were. For example, the foundations of the Old Bouleuterion are all that’s left of the old senate house, where legislative bills were prepared for voting on.
Above it, on the hillside, is the best
preserved building within the Agora. The Temple of Hephaistos was
completed in 415 BC and served as a Greek Orthodox church for centuries,
and it became a museum in the 19th century before being kept simply as
an ancient monument. If you don’t mind the pun, it’s a classic example
of a classical Greek building. With the Doric columns and story-telling
metopes, it’s rather reminiscent of a more famous building – the
Parthenon.
Old Byzantine Church within Agora
The Acropolis
The Parthenon, of course, sits atop the Acropolis, which is a relatively easy walk away from the Agora. It slowly snakes uphill past a gorgeous old Byzantine church. The Acropolis isn’t just about the Parthenon, however. Indeed, the World Heritage plaque outside says: “The Acropolis and its monuments are universal symbols of the classical spirit and culture, forming the greatest architectural and artistic whole that Greek antiquity has bequeathed the world.” That’s some statement, and you don’t half feel awed approaching this historic rocky outcrop.Most of the monuments atop the hill were erected in the 5th century BC, following the major victory of the Persians. The politicians had the will to create something truly impressive, and a number of sculptors had the vision. I enter through the Propylaia, a building that is actually in a better state than the Parthenon itself. It’s obvious where the restoration has been done – the bright white marble looks rather plastic compared to its centuries-old counterpart. The columns flanking the path are thoroughly inspirational though – you feel like you’re entering somewhere truly important.
Temple of Hephaistos above remains of Old Bouleuterion
The Parthenon
The Parthenon sits pretty much in the middle of the hill, and it’s clear that most of the postcard shots are taken from the same angle. Look at it from other angles and the Parthenon seems to have just crumpled in on itself. The scaffolding surrounding parts of it may as well be permanent, and you’ll often have a rather anachronistic crane sat in the middle.Much of the decoration that once adorned the Parthenon is no longer there. Famously, huge chunks of the friezes were cut away by Lord Elgin in the early 19th century and now reside in the British Museum. To say this is a sore point would be an enormous understatement. Most Greeks think the Parthenon Marbles should be returned, and it’s hard to see the argument to the contrary.
As with many ancient sites, you either need a good guide book or tour guide to bring it to life. Go uninformed and it’s still great – even if only for the views out over the city – but when you start getting the detail and the stories it becomes more affecting.
On the way down, the route passes the Theatre of Dionysos. Time has not been kind to this stone construction, and it would have looked much grander back in the day, but history has a special place for it. This is widely credited as where theatre and drama began; it’s the ancient forerunner of Broadway, Hollywood and every other theatre or cinema across the world.
Parthenon
New Acropolis Museum
At the bottom of the hill is the Acropolis’ most recent big player. The new Acropolis Museum opened in 2009, with the aim of being the perfect showcase for all the treasures that have been removed from the hill for their own safety and preservation.The museum cost around 130m euro to construct, and it replicates the sensation of ascending to the Acropolis by theming collections over different levels. The entrance hall slopes, guiding through the sanctuaries and temples of the hill’s lower levels. Unlike on the Acropolis itself, the signage is excellent here. You learn what everything was used for, whether funeral sacrifices, wedding customs or gathering places for cults.
The museum later becomes a highly impressive field of statues, busts and sculptures, but it’s the top level that’s the real scene-stealer. The Parthenon Gallery is superb, and the artefacts from the Parthenon that Greece still has are displayed as they would have been on the building itself. Created in the same proportions and facing exactly the same way, it allows you to take the building in as a proper whole. The intricacy of the stonework can be appreciated; the friezes depicting scenes from the Battle of Troy, mythical encounters and centaurs fighting lapiths are displayed in order. All have been cleaned using laser technology.
Where stones are missing, either through wear, vandalism or British thievery, faithful replicas have been put in their place. It’s a formidable showpiece for the city, and the perfect compliment for a trip up to the Acropolis itself.
New Acropolis Museum
Athens accommodation
If you want something at completely the opposite end of the scale from the Acropolis, then try the startling Semiramis in the northern suburb of Kifisia. Plastered with modern art, and dominated by lurid greens and pinks, it’s a world away from your bog-standard chain hotel. The outdoor pool area is a psychedelic, multi-coloured affair and just about everything in the room – from closing the curtains and dimming the lights to popping on the Do Not Disturb sign – can be done electronically from your bed. It’s luxury with a very big twist…Adventure Traveler - Viator Team
